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Foundation Crack Repair

“Our life is frittered away by detail. Simplify, simplify!” – Henry David Thoreau

INTRODUCTION

Over time concrete structures tend to settle, move and essentially fracture or crack. This is true all across much of the northern hemisphere. Concrete is a very sturdy building material (thanks to the Romans) but it offers very little flexibility in the wake of settlement, shifting and natural concrete porousness. Solid concrete slabs, walls and pads tend to crack over time. 85% of homes built in Canada simply do not have any form of waterproofing membranes applied to their foundation walls which makes them susceptible to cracking at one time or another. A functioning weeping tile system alone will not protect your basement or its concrete walls from water penetration. Only a rubberized membrane, coupled with a complete weeping tile envelope can fully seal below grade concrete foundation walls.

OUR SOLUTION

With the age of information in full swing coupled with a “golden age” of technology, we often find ourselves a little lost when trying to separate information from knowledge. It would seem that every big-box store, company and/or contractor has their “own” way of repairing below-grade concrete structures. The first rule of poured concrete crack repair, is that the repair must be completed from the exterior of the foundation wall itself. Some of these exotic and counter intuitive methods include crack injections, custom proprietary interior “trough systems”, foam gravel beds, and the like. The issues and remedies can actually become too cloudy with these levels of information saturation. Essentially, the first rule of concrete crack repair (relating to a poured concrete foundation wall) is that the repair must be completed from the exterior of the foundation wall itself. Interior methods essentially still allow water penetration into the crack and over time interior coatings, injection or interior membranes will very quickly break down and fail. We refer to this as “water management”. Imagine the analogy of attempting to repair the hull of a ship from the inside of the hull. While in the moment, this style of repair may get you to your next port, over time the water inevitably penetrates the void and quickly erodes the “patch”. The same analogy rings true for waterproofing residential poured concrete structures.

SOLVE THE ISSUE AT THE SOURCE: FROM THE EXTERIOR

The exterior of the foundation wall is normally where cracks originate. These areas must be exposed carefully and properly to assess and fully repair the damage at its source! Below-grade utilities like gas lines, hydro services and telephone/data lines must be located and clearly marked before hand-excavation can begin. Obstacles such as air conditioning units, interlocking stone, patio stone, decking, asphalt or concrete walkways must be removed to access the intended repair areas. Once we arrive at the footing, inspection of the existing weeping tile system takes place. If damaged – replacement is our first priority. The exposed foundation wall is then cleaned with a wirebrush and all cracks, voids and tie-rod holes are grinded out and immediately repaired with expansive hydraulic cement. Once cured, the entire foundation wall from footing to grade is primed. This specialized primer allows the rubberized membrane to achieve positive adhesion to the concrete foundation wall itself. Once this primer is dry, the first layer of our rubberized membrane is applied by hand followed by a layer of fiberglass mesh. This fiberglass mesh gives our rubberized membrane flexibility and movement over time; moving with the structure as appose to against it; crucial. Another layer of rubberized membrane is applied onto the fiberglass mesh followed by a final layer of thick plastic. Lastly, a layer of Platon drainage board is installed. Drainage board allows for decreased levels of hydrostatic pressure against the foundation walls enabling large volumes of water to vertically drain to the weeping tile system below.

As the backfilling process begins, the native soil is power tamped every 6″-12″ inches. This ensures:

That drainage is consistent.
The rubberized membrane and waterproofing system is locked into place.
Restoration of the original grade within the repaired areas.
Little to no settlement after completion.

TERMINATION STRAP

After a full manual backfill and powertamp, a termination strip is attached to the top of the Platon drainage board. Rookies will put the termination strip on before they backfill; but this is not recommended. Below grade movement, due to our changing weather conditions here in the GTA, can cause a separation between the drainage board and the termination strip. This separation causes double trouble as noted below:

A perfect environment for driving rainwater to get behind patch.
Can create an unsightly finish to the exterior above grade areas.

After completion, everything within the repaired area is washed and swept. Tarps are rolled up and reused and the site is restored to the status it was prior to our repair process. Hand excavation is key in this regard. It is very low impact and allows for a near perfect restoration to pre-repair conditions. Excavation using large, heavy machinery makes this cleanup factor a near impossibility.

THE TRUSTED SOURCE

By doing things right, following the process above to the letter and using the most robust materials possible, we know the repair will last; our 42 year longevity proves that! Our crews take pride in their work and have been with us for decades!

We’re old school, and it works.

6 Step Repair Process:

Determine Origin of Leak

Determine moisture or water entry location to help us determine the origin of the leak into your basement.

Choose The Right Technique

Beware of interior injections and exotic repair methods. Trust in the solutions that have stood the test of time.

Underground Services

If the repair is taking place on the exterior of the foundation wall, be sure all underground services are marked prior to excavation.

Remedy For The Future

Basement waterproofing is among the most expensive work a homeowner can undertake in their home. Make sure!

Cost Vs Workmanship

With dozens of contractors out there be sure you are getting what you pay for. Beware of the recently saturated marketplace.

Drainage!

Maintain your eavestroughs and downspouts year round, and ensure your grade is positive pitched away from foundation walls.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS:

What is the difference between hand excavation and machine?

Hand excavation affords less overall damage to the property and its surroundings. Heavy machinery is also difficult to operate in tight-access residential situations. Overall, we prefer hand excavation over machinery wherever possible.

What time of year can this type of work be completed in?

Exterior and interior foundation repair and waterproofing can be completed by an experienced crew at any time during the year, but keep in mind that heavy rains and snow storms can slow the progress.

Do I need to obtain a permit for this work?

Generally speaking, waterproofing and drainage considerations do not require permits as the structure of your home is not being changed in anyway. However, permits are required for underpinning and major structural repairs.

If digging from the outside, what about my gardens and shrubs?

Our hand excavation waterproofing process protects the esthetics of your home in a way that machine excavation is not capable of doing. Interlocking stone, garden beds and shrubbery can be reinstalled with minimal effect to the esthetics of the property.

Do you lay down tarps before work starts?

Yes. As excavations take place tarps separate the excavated soil from contaminating your grounds. Once our backfill is complete, the grounds are restored to their original condition.

Does insurance typically cover this work?

Generally speaking, residential insurance policies do not cover foundation seepage or cracks in the foundation walls unless these protections were specifically instituted at the onset of your policy. For more information, call your insurance company directly.

What about my interlocking patio or walkway?

After completion of repairs, the soil is back-filled and power tamped to ensure minimal overall settlement. Our crews can then reinstall your interlocking patio.

Do you recommend a battery backup system for my sump pump?

Most power outages occur during large storms, which is precisely the time that you need your sump pump working at peak performance. Battery backup systems guarantee sump pump evacuation regardless of essential service outages.

Do my eavestroughs really affect the integrity of my foundation walls?

Absolutely. Upwards of 85% of foundation issues originate from blocked or improperly installed eavestrough, fascia and/or downspouts. Trough maintenance is crucial.

Should I ever backfill a repair completely with gravel?

Gravel should only be installed around the weeping tile system at footing level. Native soil is always recommended to be returned to an excavation after repairs have been complete. Complete gravel backfills are not recommended.

Do you locate underground services before the work begins?

Yes. We take care of all below-grade service locates prior to any excavations taking place. These locates includes Hydro, Gas and Data (but may not include any third-party lines)

Do you recommend hiring an engineer for my project?

An engineer is not required for every project, but in the event that a P. Eng is required you can provide a structural engineer of your choosing or we can provide one for you. Overall, engineers are key to underscoring clarity and determining overall specifications for large-scope projects. Their knowledge and insight is second to none.

6 Step Repair Process:

Determine Origin of Leak

Determine the moisture or water entry location to help us determine the origin of the leak into your basement.

Choose The Right Technique

Beware of interior injections and exotic repair methods. Trust the solutions that have truly stood the test of time.

Underground Services

If excavation and repairs are taking place on the exterior of home, be sure all underground services are marked prior to breaking ground.

Remedy For The Future

Basement waterproofing is amongst the most expensive repair a homeowner can undertake; and oftentimes there is only one chance to get it right.

Cost Vs Workmanship

With dozens of contractors out there be sure you are getting what you pay for. Beware of the recently saturated marketplace.

Drainage!

Maintain your eavestroughs and downspouts year round, and ensure your grade is positive pitched away from foundation walls.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS:

What is the difference between hand excavation and machine?

What time of year can this type of work be completed in?

Exterior and interior foundation repair and waterproofing can be completed by an experienced crew at any time during the year, but keep in mind that heavy rains and snow storms can slow the progress.

Do I need to obtain a permit for this work?

If digging from the outside, what about my gardens and shrubs?

Do you lay down tarps before work starts?

Yes. As excavations take place tarps separate the excavated soil from contaminating your grounds. Once our backfill is complete, the grounds are restored to their original condition.

Does insurance typically cover this work?

What about my interlocking patio or walkway?

After completion of repairs, the soil is back-filled and power tamped to ensure minimal overall settlement. Our crews can then reinstall your interlocking patio.

Do you recommend a battery backup system for my sump pump?

Do my eavestroughs really affect the integrity of my foundation walls?

Absolutely. Upwards of 85% of foundation issues originate from blocked or improperly installed eavestrough, fascia and/or downspouts. Trough maintenance is crucial.

Should I ever backfill a repair completely with gravel?

Do you locate underground services before the work begins?

Yes. We take care of all below-grade service locates prior to any excavations taking place. These locates includes Hydro, Gas and Data (but may not include any third-party lines)

Do you recommend hiring an engineer for my project?

OUR SOLUTION

With the age of information in full swing coupled with a “golden age” of technology, we often find ourselves a little lost when trying to separate information from knowledge. It would seem that every big-box store, company and/or contractor has their “own” way of repairing below-grade concrete structures. The first rule of poured concrete crack repair (relating to a poured concrete foundation wall) is that the repair must be completed from the exterior of the foundation wall itself. Some of these exotic and counter intuitive methods include crack injections, custom proprietary interior “trough systems”, foam gravel beds, and the like. The issues and remedies can actually become too cloudy with these levels of information saturation. Essentially, the first rule of concrete crack repair relating to a poured concrete foundation wall is that the repair must be completed from the exterior of the foundation wall itself. Interior methods essentially still allow water penetration into the crack and over time interior coatings, injection or interior membranes will very quickly break down and fail. We refer to this as “water management”. Imagine the analogy of attempting to repair the hull of a ship from the inside of the hull? While in the moment, this style of repair may get you to your next port but over time the water inevitably penetrates the void and quickly erodes the “patch”. The same analogy rings true for waterproofing residential poured concrete structures.

SOLVE THE ISSUE AT THE SOURCE: FROM THE EXTERIOR

The exterior of the foundation wall is normally where cracks originate. These areas must be exposed carefully and properly to assess and fully repair the damage at its source! First, below-grade utilities like gas lines, hydro services and telephone/data lines must be located and clearly marked before hand-excavation can begin. Obstacles such as air conditioning units, interlocking stone, patio stone, decking, asphalt or concrete walkways must be removed to access intended repair areas. Once we arrive at the footing, inspection of the existing weeping tile system takes place. If damaged – replacement is our first priority. The exposed foundation wall is then cleaned with a wirebrush and all cracks, voids and tie-rod holes are grinded out and immediately repaired with expansive hydraulic cement. Once cured, the entire foundation wall from footing to grade is primed. This specialized primer allows the rubberized membrane to achieve positive adhesion to the concrete foundation wall itself. Once this primer is dry, the first layer of our rubberized membrane is applied by hand followed by a layer of fiberglass mesh. This fiberglass mesh gives our rubberized membrane flexibility and movement over time; which allows it to move with the structure as opposed to against it, which is crucial. Another layer of rubberized membrane is applied onto the fiberglass mesh followed by a final layer of thick plastic. Lastly, a layer of Platon drainage board is installed. Drainage board allows for decreased levels of hydrostatic pressure against the foundation walls enabling large volumes of water to vertically drain to the weeping tile system below.

As the backfilling process begins, the native soil is power tamped every 6″-12″ inches. This ensures:

Drainage is consistent.
The rubberized membrane and waterproofing system is locked into place.
Restoration of the original grade within the repaired areas.
Little to no settlement after completion.

TERMINATION STRAP

A perfect environment for driving rainwater to get behind the patch.
Can create an unsightly finish to the exterior above grade areas.

THE TRUSTED SOURCE

By doing things right, following the process above to the letter and using the most robust materials possible, we know the repair will last; our 42-year longevity proves that! Our crews take pride in their work and have been with us for decades!

We’re old school, and it works.